The Maldives is two entirely different holidays at prices differing by a factor of ten. The choice is made before you book anything else.
Resort islands
One island, one resort, no residents. Overwater villas, no dress code, alcohol served, and complete isolation.
This is what the Maldives is famous for and it costs accordingly — several hundred to several thousand dollars a night.
Transfers are the hidden cost. Seaplane transfers run several hundred dollars per person return and are frequently not included.
A cheaper resort far from Malé can end up more expensive than a nearer, pricier one. Always confirm the transfer cost before booking.
Seaplanes only fly in daylight, which means a late arrival at Malé costs a night in an airport hotel.
Local islands
Since guesthouses opened on inhabited islands, the Maldives has a budget version — rooms at a small fraction of resort prices.
The trade-offs are real and should be understood rather than discovered:
These are Muslim communities. Modest dress — shoulders and knees covered — is expected outside designated bikini beaches, which are separated stretches where swimwear is permitted.
Alcohol is not served on inhabited islands. Some guesthouses arrange trips to floating bars or nearby resorts.
Transfers are by public ferry, which is very cheap and runs on a limited schedule, or by speedboat.
Maafushi, Thulusdhoo, Dhigurah, Fulidhoo and Ukulhas are the established ones.
What you actually get in each
| Resort | Local island | |
|---|---|---|
| Cost per night | $400–3,000+ | $50–150 |
| Transfer | $200–600 pp | $3–40 pp |
| Alcohol | Yes | No |
| Dress | Unrestricted | Modest outside bikini beach |
| Diving | On site | Local operators, cheaper |
| Contact with Maldivians | Staff only | The whole island |
The house reef question
The single most important factor for snorkellers, and it varies dramatically between islands.
Some islands have a reef a few metres offshore that you swim to from the beach. Others require a boat every time.
Check specific reef descriptions rather than general island reviews — this determines what you do all day.
What to book
Manta and whale shark excursions — Hanifaru Bay in Baa Atoll for mantas roughly May to November, South Ari Atoll for whale sharks year round.
Liveaboard diving, which is the serious diver's option and reaches sites no single island can.
Sandbank trips — a strip of sand in open ocean, and one of the more genuinely remarkable things available.
Practical
Season: dry roughly November to April, wetter May to October with lower prices and generally still good diving.
Do not touch or stand on coral. It is living and it dies from contact. Reef-safe sunscreen, or better, a rash vest.
Ramadan affects local islands — restaurants may close during daylight. Resorts are unaffected.